Carnaval

Feb 20, 2007 Today in the city it’s raining. The roads turn to rivers that wash down the storm drains and out to sea. The beaches are empty and people scurry about under umbrellas or huddle under awnings. The city is quiet, only the gentle sound of the rain, the rush of the water through the streets, distant thunder. After a week of carnival the rain is cool and soothing.
I could write a book about Carnaval in Brazil, just describing the images I’ve seen, not to mention the complex history and cultural significance of the festival. Many consider Carnaval to be greatest manifestaion of Brazilian culture. I think this is an overstatement. Carnaval is of European origin and some type of Carnaval is celebrated in countries all over the world. In addition Carnaval is a holiday a break from the normal lives of Brazilians. For these reasons I will limit my analysis of Carnaval to a brief description of the things I observed first hand.

All week long the sun has been burning, the beaches crowded, the city dancing, Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro is legendary around the world, seeing it in person I am overwhelmed. The week began early Sunday morning 7 am and there are fireworks out side my window. All day long children with painted faces run through the streets, the sun blazes and the people gather in city squares, or on doorsteps to laugh and dance. Sounds and smells from the street fairs fill the city.
As night falls the shops close, the bars open, the music grows louder and faster. On Wednesday I visited Lapa, the literal center of the city. It was 11 o’clock and the bars and clubs were just opening, The streets were filled with people, people danced around trucks with huge speakers on trailers. The city was literally roaring with people. Beneath the starless sky I work my way through the endless crowds of people, who were drinking, laughing, and yelling to each other. By shoes were soon caked with a sort of mud made of paper confetti mixed with urine and street water. It was almost too much for the senses to register.
Thursday we went to a stadium to watch one of the Saba schools practice for the parades. The floats and costumes were astonishing. The floats were gigantic, the main float was a giant figure of Satan himself, real flames came from his staff.
Behind him a giant pyramid filled with a hundred men in loincloths, All around them women danced in their costumes, a sea of jewels, and feathers, and naked skin. The crowd sang the same refrain again and again… Eu quero ver o amor florescer o diferente é normal, da da da (I want to see love flourish, what is different is normal, da da da…
I stood breathless,
I didn’t participate in many of the celebrations but I still hardly slept all week. Now that it’s all over I finally have time to relax. The rain is soothing and it washes the city.